Idyllic Lakeside Bargain Accommodation in Sumatra, Indonesia

Travel prices are on the climb in Southeast Asia, even for bargain accommodations. However, there are still places where good quality and low prices can be had, and Danau Toba, Sumatra is one of them. Located in North Sumatra, this off-the-beaten path destination is an idyllic setting at the heart of an island full of adventure.

Following the Bali Bombings of 2002 and 2005, tourism in Indonesia saw a steep decline. Locations like Sumatra, which have much to offer but were still not in the backpacker mainstream, went into an absolute tailspin. For much of the island, this meant that bargain accommodation was the rule, but that quality became very poor. This did not happen at Danau Toba. Danau, or Lake Toba, is the largest volcanic lake in the world, sitting inside a truly ancient caldera creating a setting that truly ranks among one of the natural wonders of the world. The lake is 62 miles long, 18 1/2 miles wide, over 1,600 feet deep at the deepest point, and occupies a surface area larger than the nearby city-state of Singapore. The scale of the lake and the great natural beauty of the setting combine to make it an outstanding lakeside resort. That, in turn, makes Danau Toba the crossroads for the few backpackers that still venture into Sumatra, and therefore one of the few places where prices remain low and standards remain relatively high.

Getting to Danau Toba and its bargain accommodations starts at Medan, Sumatra’s largest city. From there, the budget traveler catches a 4-6 hour bus ride to the lakeside town of Parapet, and then the ferry to Tuk Tuk on Pulau Samosir, or Samosir Island. This is a backpacker area, festooned with cheap places to stay, but is strangely relaxed and quiet for a backpacker zone. Khao San Road this is not.

Bagus Bay is fairly typical of the good bargains to be had in bargain accommodation. The guesthouse is a lakefront property with easy access to swimming, and if one makes the usual deal for a long term stay with meals taken in the restaurant, a spacious room with basic furniture, a private bathroom, a mosquito net, and an electric fan can be had for as little as $6 per day.

Cheaper accommodations can be had on the main island. Tuk Tuk is a small peninsula, connected to the nearby main island by a causeway. The guesthouses on the other side off bargain accommodations, some in traditional Batak houses, for as little as $3/day. It is Spartan, but it is certainly cheap.

Even the plushiest spots on Danau Toba do not cost that much. Even the excellent cottages of Tabo Cottages cost only $11 per night, with the “luxury” 3 star rooms of the Hotel Carolia running a mere $13 per night.

For a long time, Southeast Asia was the best place in the world to balance accommodation quality and price. In many ways, it still is, but in some popular places, getting a bargain means making hard choices about location and quality. However, there are still bargains to be found in Southeast Asia, especially in Indonesia, and Danau Toba ranks very high on the list of places where high quality bargain accommodation can be had!




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